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Around Ireland 2011Part 3
Circumnavigating Ireland 2011 Leg 7 Baltimore to Dublin Frid 5th Aug---Efter movin ti the ither side o' the pontoon ti accommodate a 45 footer we went up ti hae a look aroon fit is really a biggish village wi a few bars an eatin places and a very busy yachtin scene in summer. I had been in Baltimore in early March 06 an it wis deed. Apparently most o' the fleet were across Long Island Bay for a weekend regatta at Schull leavin thir big rib tenders packed roon the pontoon. The celtic tiger is still alive wi some bi the looks o' it! We had a good, bit deer kine, meal in an upstairs resturant wi views ower the hairber an noticed a Macduff built 70 fet trawler commin in ti discharge on ti a truck at the fishin jeety so efter I signed ma trust deeds we went doon ti hae a look. Efter the truck wis loaded an awa the relieved skipper cid hae a yarn an as usual the main topic is daft EU rules, plenty fish bit poor quotas, and enforcement, which is nae as tight as at hame. Had a look inti the marquee yacht club far they'd jist hid an auction bit felt oot a place athoot ma blazer! We did hae a drink bit nae crack tho. We then went to "Bushes" for a nightcap an sat wi an elderly couple an thir dother who were oot for two weeks on thir Moody. He was an ex commodore o' Royal Cork YC an hid deen two Atlantic crossins. Plenty stories. Thir son is an aide ti Alex Salmond an thir dother works for Goldman Sachs in New York. The couple on the boat moored next ti us wis there an he showed us lots a coves an hairbers that we cid use aroon this wild coast. Turned oot a good nicht bit maybe ower mony doubles!! Sat 6th-Woke ti heavy rain that stopped as we hid wir tea so Mo went for milk an breed takin her camera ti record some o' the views o' the village an hairber while I got ready ti sail. I payed wir 25 euro dues (we're on the sooth coast noo) at the shed on the pontoon that wis an al' boat or barge an motored oot ti the narra fairway leadin ti the entrance. We're nae on a ticht schedule bit even wi oor loose time constraints, wi some regrets, we've hid ti miss oot the Shannon Estuary an Long Island Bay. Two miles clear o' the entrance we passed Kedge Island in VERY confused seas in a fresh wsw wind an bore awa ti the east toward Glandore. It wis a very rolly run east passin inside The Stags bit aince we altered ti the nne an efter passin Low Island we lost the swall an entered Glandore Harber in a flatter. The channel up ti Glandore an Union Hall, a fishin hairber, passes Adam an Eve rocks ti port an then the scary rocks that are well named The Dangers ti starboard an then opens up a bonny anchorage at Glandore. We picked up a club moorin an cid see a widdin party at ane o' the big hoose type hotels an also cid see an hear a band playin outside ane o' the two pubs on the village street. So, efter a snack we rowed ashore ti the sma, one basin al' hairber ti hae a look aroon. The band wis jist packin up when we arrived bit a rare singsong started an wis still gan when we rowed back oot in a calm bonny nicht. We had fancied a chippy bit the nearest ane wis three miles awa so it wis crackers, cheese an pate' while listenen ti the singin. The forecast soons a bit iffy so we'll see fit the mornin's like. Distance the day-18 miles. Sun 7th-Rose at 8 ti no wind so decided ti git goin an sailed at 8.30. As we cleared the entrance we felt the left ower swall and in the freshenen sw win it wis very rolly . I managed ti lit the main halyard foul the radar reflector an cwidna git it clear so it wis genny only which wisna enough ti stop the rollin. Passin outside Doolin Rock at Galley Hd it wis very choppy bit, as forecast, the wind backed ti sooth an we had a better sail ene, passin Clonakilty Bay, Seven Heads, Courtmacsherry Bay ti the Old Head of Kinsale, far the win veered an eased awa so we motored the last six miles ti Kinsale. The two mile run up ti Kinsale fae the entrance is affa bonny an passes a big al' fort ti starboard. Efter moorin at a handy berth at the very nice marina we managed ti git the halyard clear athoot somebody, me, gan up the mast so I hid a malt ti celebrate. The beautiful yacht club hid only two showers for visitors an considerin the number o' visitin boats fae a' ower it wis nae ees, bit we waited wir turn like good senior citizens an got wir monies worth. Paul, the marina manager, took time ti yarn an fill us in wi lots a info on the toon an its history. I winner fit visitors think o' thir welcome ti oor hairber? Kinsale is recognized as the food capitol of Ireland bit we opted for a fish supper in a bonny, friendly restaurant an went on ti sample the varied music in the pubs. Distance the day-32 miles Mon 8th-Rain durin the nicht bit rose ti a bonny sunny morning so went for a walk roon the hairber ti hae a look at the fishin boats an anither marina that wisna si handy for the toon. Had lunch in the quaint, aul Mother Hubbards an then walked a' roon the lovely toon, got some stores an headed back ti rest the al' feet an read the papers. We hid wir usual hunt for music that suited us an wis well pleased wi the band plus dancers in a big al' pub. On wir wye back at 11 o' clock we passed a chippy an as the smell wis gan roon wir herts we ordered a wee baggie atween us bit as it wis closing time for them they gave us a hunnerwecht!!. Plan for the morn is ti rise early an sail bi 8.30 for Cork wi the tide. Tues 9th-As per plan we left the pontoon an motored doon the hairber takin in the sights an efter passin Bulman Rock Lt we bore awa ti the ene close along the coast. There are some bonny neuks an bays atween Kinsale an Cork Harbour an in decent wither yi cid spen some time potterin in this bit a coast. We passed inside Big Sovereign an Daunt rocks afore turnin nne an a few miles later entered the well buoyed channels ti Cork Harbour. It hid been wir plan ti turn ti port at Rams Hd an go up the river ti Crosshaven an the Royal Cork YC marina bit as we wid hae the flood the 13 miles up ti Cork City an the new pontoon in the hert o' the toon, we kept goin. It wis a fine run up past Cobh wi its big cathedral, and Monktown, then it narrowed a bit but it wis very well buoyed. We arrived at the 150 ft pontoon wi water an electric, at high water an the only boat there wis jist leavin so we hid the place ti wirsels. It looks like this new pontoon is a well kept secret!! The city centre wis a short walk awa an had 4 streets for pedestrians only. Plenty fowk gan aboot wi a good curn buskers entertainin We had met ane o' them in Galway an she offered ti sing "Caledonia" for us. Wisint that nice noo. On the wye back ti the boat we went inti a sma pub that hid music on an wis packed..The barman served, washed glasses, cleared tables an naebody had ti wait ti be served..Plan for the morn is ti go on a city bus tour an look aroon. Distance the day-27 miles Wed 10th Aug---At last Mo's gan ti dee a page. Hope`n tae meet sum o the O`Mahoney`s fowk Catherine telt them tae look oot for us. Plenty rain through the nicht bit clear fin we rose. Had a fried breakfast afore headin for the tour bus at 11.15. First stop for us was the Old Gaol. We took the audio tour an then a visual show. It was very well done and very informative. Well worth the 6 euro. The bus then took us aroon the aul part o Cork wi its narrow lanes ca`d efter the business`s at wis ther like Butchers an Bakers. We next got aff at the English Market far we had a good look aroon then upstairs far we had oor lunch. You queued, ordered and paid for your meal , then an on the ball waiter took your tray and found a seat for you. We wer put at the front of the balcony overlookin part of the big market an could see a' the ongoe. You could be sat with others - great idea - good crack-naebody keepin seats! - very well organized wi a good selection of food. The market wis special, wi a' the food trades there ,whit a variety ,especially green grocers an butchers. We spoke wi an al green grocer who had enlarged photos of the Queen on his stand and very proud he wis tae. He was fair chuffed wi her an tellin us a` about her chat wi him, then he took out a box of photos taen on his family stand. We'd heard quite a few comments on how pleased people were that the Queen had been to Ireland. Efter anither look roon the market John went back tae the boat tae change the engine oil and I joined the bus again for the cathedral. It was a huge church wi beautiful stained glass windows depicting different bible stories. I saw a plaque to the one and only female freemason! bit John disna believe me an is makin commentsaboot strong Irish communion wine!! Bit iv`e got a foto tae prove it! Ootside ther`s a golden statue o an angel abeen the reef an atween the spires. Back on the bus in heavy rain, bit the traffic wis so bad we niver moved for 30 minutes so I got aff an walked back to Lotus. John had deen the engine job an was now checking our options for leaving the boat when we fly hame on the 26th. as we're hopin to be in the Dublin area. John cooked a fillet steak supper, wi mushrooms, onions an a new tattie an it wis jist perfect. Athin wis bocht at the English market at haf the price fae hame. A couple a drinks then an early nicht. The plan for the morn is tae toddle doon on the ebb tae the Royal Cork at Crosshaven an sample the hospitality at "the oldest yacht club in the world"!! Thur 11th Aug---Went across to pay our dues at the Cork Harbour Commissioners offices. Wow! Up the big staircase to a waitin room more like a hall, wi leather cheers an cooches, photos an paintins o' cruise an naval ships on the wood paneled wa's. Wir 20 euros didna cover this grandeur bit well done ti them for pittin a nice secure marina in the city. Efter a casual breakfast we had final walk aroon, got some stores and on gittin back spoke ti a family fae Wales who had jist arrived on thir 42ft motor cruiser. Fairly big,100+ metre coasters use Cork bit the cruise ships berth at Cobh, Titanic's last port. Aince past Cobh the hairber opens up ti an enclosed bay aboot 3 miles across and is perfect for racin roon the cans. We swung ti starboard inti the Rowanboy River an passed two marinas afore berthin at the Royal Cork. We'd niver seen so mony boats an thir wis moorins as far as we cid see up the river. The moorin that had been offered bi Dermot Burns at Lawrence Cove wis a bit upriver so we took a pontoon at 23 euros an enjoyed the lovely showers etc. As expected, the club wis very nice an buzzin wi youngsters, who had their ane club, preparing for dinghy races. Nane o' the local pubs served food bit there wis a good chinese so we had a bowl a rice ti keep us gan . Back at the club the prizes for fit had been area finals were bein presented and wis well attended bit as it wis thursday, abody dispersed sharpish so we wir back on Lotus afore 10. Distance motored the day---13miles Frid 12th-I rose early and went for a look aroon the big marina as I usually dee. Yir always learnin. I think?!?. I wis a bit surprised at hoo few cruisers wir berthed at this club wi,I wid estimate, 80 / 90% o' the boats, big an sma, were set up for racin which wis unlike Kinsale far there wir a lot mare cruisers berthed AND that seemed ti be the marina / club that attracted the visitors. Efter breakfast we set aff for a walk ti the east o' the village and as we passed the ither marinas an boatyards we called in to a couple a' workshops ti see if we cid get a sma 2 stroke. Thir wis one offered bit it didna work so no thanks. We walked richt roon ti Rams Hd an Camden Fort which wisna open bit they wir lookin for volunteers ti help renovate it. Again, no thanks. Bi this time it wis rainin so we headed back, passin some very modern hooses an stopped aff at a wee coffee shop at 1.30. Went next door for some stores an then popped inti the club for a quick ane. A couple of Americans were very loudly discussin thir forthcommin trip ti the west an some o' the places that we've been ti bit oor peer Scots voices cwidna compete so we left them to it. Later on that evenin we went across ti "Johnny's Return" ti see fit the music wis like an tho they didna start till 10.30 it wis worth the wait. Johnny, the owner sat wi us an newsed for a while then came back wi a plate a sandwiches for us. A nice touch. We were back on the boat bi 12.30. Even tho the marinas at Crosshaven are well sheltered and thirs plenty water, we found the people a bit clannish an for that reason we decided ti move on a day earlier than planned. Sat 13rd---Rose at 7 for the cast which wis west ti southwest 4/5 occ 6. Iffy kine an we dibber dabbert a file bit decided ti go at 1200. Aince clear a Roches Pt we set a' the sail an hid a good sail ene in misty wither bit as the win gradually veered ti west we rolled awa the genny, slacked oot the main an kept up 5/6kts wi nae si much rollin. The intention wis ti go inti Youghal bit as we were gan si weel we kept gan the Dungarvin Bay an anchored jist aff the new lookin hairber at Helvick at 6.30 an relaxed wi the Manson takin the strain an had the soup that Mo had prepared this mornin . Distance the day-31miles Sunday 14th---Moderate win a' nicht bit lay fine an hid a good nap despite the main halyard ratlin noo an again. Took wir anchor at 8 an hid a fine broad reach in sun wi Mo steerin a' the wye ti Dunmore East which we left ti port an entered the estuary for Waterford Harbour, the town of Waterford bein 12/13 miles up the River Suir. The run up passed Duncannon an Arthurstown ti starboard then Passage East ti port before gittin wyndie the rest o' the wye ti Waterford. We had been feelin the flood a' the wye up but for the last twisty mile it wis fierce especially as we approached the lang pontoon at Waterford. I hid the fenders on the port side which meant a downtide approach. I shid've changed them an turned roon bit thocht I wid manage ti git peer Lotus alongside bit she jist spun roon an er stem got a wee dunt. Tut tut again. There wisna onybody at the office (It WIS Sunday) so we borrowed a key for the showers bit the water heater wis aff so I hid a cal shower as punishment for makin an erse a commin alongside. We had a look roon an wir nae sure if it's been worth commin 12 miles up the river but we're here noo so we'll try ti tak the good o' it. Distance the day-32 miles Mon 15th Aug--- Had a good sleep despite the movement at the turn o' the tide and it's overcast bit dry at the moment so off we went again for anither look aroon. Went inti St Patricks RC church which wis very nice an busy cos it's Holy Day. Further along some back streets we came to Christ Church Cathedral which wis also nice bit nae si ornate as the RC ane. It had a recently renovated huge organ that sounded awesome. Roon the corner wis Waterford Crystal shop wi some beautiful examples o' the work costin thoosans a euros. A couple a streets awa we came ti 33 The Mall far the first tricolor wis raised bi T F Meagher in 1848, a revolutionary that went on ti be the first governor o' Montana. Here ends the history lesson bit am sure yi a' kent that. Went ti the marina laundry ti catch up wi the washin backlog. Heavy rain aff an on during the efterneen an evening bit eventually got the claes dry. Eatin aboard an jist heard on the radio that a big yacht in the Fastnet race has capsized in fit wis described as moderate conditions. Looks like a bit has drapped aff !! Tues 16---Wis up at 7 for tha cast which sounds ok so went ti the showers an checked emails while the water wis heatin then went for gaz. Had breakfast an lit go at 10.45 in a fierce ebb, managing ti bump the starboard quarter as we went. Wi the engine in neutral we were gan doon at 7.5 knots for the first 2 miles. Av been in stronger tides in the Pentland Firth bit niver been tied up at a pontoon or pier in sic a strong stream. A bonny Dutch Breehorn 44 overtook us at the bar far it wis hale chavie and we both headed the 2 miles for Dunmore East far he anchored an we went inti the fishin hairber an tied up alongside a 45ft trawler that wis lyin ootsde the Caronia, an ex Lossie seiner. The lad on the trawler didna ken fan they were sailin bit as thir wis nae ither crew aboard we went up the street ti hae a look at fit wis a bonny wee toon wi lots a hooses wi thacket reefs. We hid soup an wasps at a café an efter a look roon the busy fishin hairber we were back aboard at 4pm. The skipper wis aboord noo an tho she widna yarn, she telt us she wis pullin oot at night. It looked like the crew wis the skipper an her girl friend an twa African lads. The boat wis clean. Thinkin the flood wid noo be on at Hook Hd we left at 4.30 for Kilmore Quays. At Hook the win fell awa then filled in fae the north so we hid a fine beam reach across ti the fairway bouy in a bonny sunny evening. The course fae the bouy wis north across the tide an it wis slooshin us east so eyeballin the leadin marks wis priority in the mile channel ti the pier heads far we met twa big beamers commin oot. Kilmore Quays is a big one basin fishin hairber wi a 56 berth marina at the top end far we were met bi Peter the HM who had stayed late ti meets us at wir berth. I counted 34 10 metre trawler day boats an wis telt that 22 bigger trawlers and beamers work fae there an the hairber is run bi twa lads an a lassie in the office. We've found the fishin/recreational mix a' roon Ireland ti work weel wi the hairbers bein run efficiently bi 2 or 3 people. I wis thinkin that maybe oor Cooncil shid hae a visit ti see hoo it's deen bit probably that wid be a waste a oor money. Am maybe gittin a bit cynical in ma al' age !Efter a wanner roon the village we got a vg fish supper fae a hale bonny chippy an had it at a table overlookin the hairber. Distance the day-32 miles wi a stop at Dunmore East. Wed 17th--- Rose at 7 again for the cast an missed it cos the volume wis too low. I think I need a holiday. A 20 metre twin-rig trawler wis landin onti a truck so I went roon ti see if thirs ony crack. Efter landin 130 boxes (85 o' cod) The skip yarned for a file. Cod is on a 1% bycatch. Thirs nae much prawn jist noo so he's forced ti target fish which are plentiful and due ti the financial cutbacks the fishery officers are workin fae 8 till 8 !!! We hid a walk roon ti the west edge o' the village an came across a beautiful, well kept memorial garden in the shape o' a boat wi a plaque at the entrance explainin the layout an who designed it. Alongside it was a verse suggestin fit cid be the healing process efter a loss at sea. mourning-grief-emotions an then perhaps moving on. We baith thocht how lovely it wis an that it wis the nicest memorial we'd seen on wir trip an we'd seen quite a few as nearly ivery hairber had a memorial ti those lost at sea. Along one street thir wis a row o' hooses of different designs an sizes all wi thatched reefs. Two o' the three hotels hiv been closed doon, ane bi the bank an ane bi the Revenue!! We went back ti polish a bit o' Lotus bit it wis too hot so we did a bit a sunbathin. I got the cast fae the office an it looks ok. Light n / ne win which wid mean a poke aince wir roon the corner bit wiv been there afore! We decided ti leave at 6am on advicefae the hairber lad who said we shid cairy the tide a fair bit if we left then. Thur 18th---Rose at 5.30 an had a cuppa an efter helpin a Malo 39 ti swing oot o' his berth we lit go at 6.30. We went oot through the narra channel ti the fairway bouy an swung east through the buoyed channel called St Patricks Bridge which is inside the Saltee Islands. In a bonny morning wi a licht nne win we hid a good sail wi the tide across the bay ti Carnsore Point at the se corner o' Ireland far it got a wee bit choppy. As we were jist quarter o' a mile aff an deein 7 knots we hid ti keep a good lookout for the many creels that were laid in fit wis obviously a fishy place. Fae Carnsore ti jist past Rosslare the conditions were poor especially aff Greenore Point far we were hittin stannin waves at 5 ti 7 kts bit it seen flattened oot. There are three channels up throo the banks including the ane outside Tusker Rock an we took the inside ane a' the wye wi the licht win ahead bit wi the tide north ti Courtown. Fae there north we punched the tide an were doon ti 3 kts at Kilmichael Point bit we plugged awa an were at Arklow at 5.30. The previous twice I hid been in Arklow I hid used the workin basin ti port as yi come up the river bit this time we went ti the marina ti starboard ti git the use o' the good facilities there. The marina manager wis there ti tak wir ropes an tell us aboot the toon an recommended Christies so needin nae mare encouragement, an efter a shower we headed there. It wis very busy bit we got a seat at 8pm an wis fair pleased wi athin there. Decided ti bide at Arklow for a couple a days. Distance the day-52 miles Frid 19th Aug-Up early so went for a paper an fresh bread for breakfast. Two boats at the pontoon on the river had left Kilmore Quays an oor efter us an we'd a' came north on different routes, The Dublin lad hid went outside Tusker an the lad fae the Clyde, a 38 ft Moody hid came up the middle channel an I had seen him passin weel ootsde us. He hid been motorin fae the Scillies an had to refuel at Kilmore!! .The local lad hid went ootside The Tusker ti avoid the chav bit hid added a curn miles ti the passage. Apairt fae the big shoppin mall an a newish leasure centre Arklow is an al' traditional toon an on wir walk roon found six claes shops an four butchers in the main street. Durin wir efterneen walk a heavy shooer came on so we took "shelter" in Sally O'Briens . John, the barman, wis a hale newsy lad an fin the conversation got roon ti whisky he offert two good drams a Irish ti try. The 18 eer al Jameson I didna care for bit the 25 eer al Middleton wis special . Raymond, a local lad in es early sivinties, wis sittin affa quaet at a corner o' the bar so I hid a crack wi him an it turned oot that his family hid bocht the Buckie boat Privet an he hid also worked on Europa BCK 173. It's a sma world. We hid a fine yarn that brocht back mony memories. Later on we passed a dress shop an Mo decided ti hae look an ended up tryin on an buyin an outfit for the widdin we were gan tae at Ardmore on the sooth coast. Sat 20th---Rainin so niver rose si early the day. Mo made a pot a soup an I topped up the water tank. I spoke wi a lad on the the next boat an he told me they had a race on the day so the crew o' the 36ft X boat got athin ready an the skipper stepped aboord in time ti lit go !! Later in the efterneen we wannert up the toon an went in ti Sally O'Brien's for a coffee. John said that Raymond had jist left bit had been askin if we'd been in. He telt us that Raymond wis very ill an had turned doon the option of treatment bit that he'd yarned more yesterday than for weeks. We were very sorry that we'd missed him. We watched the Ireland France game an tho the bar got busy, we headed back ti Lotus for a quiet evening. The plan is ti head up the coast ti Dublin the morn. Sun 21st Aug---Sailed at 9am efter pittin wir dues thru the letter box. A bonny day wi a bit a al' swall so hid main up ti steady er upbit a breeze fae the west filled in so rolled oot the genny a hid a fine sail north wi the tide pushin us up ti 8.2 at Wicklow Head as we passed bonny places a' the wye. We came up inside Dalkey Island at the sooth side a Dublin Bay, passin some rare hooses on the steep shore ti port where a lad in a speedboat took wir photo an sent it on ti us. Anither nice touch. We passed many boats o' a' kine in the bay as we approached the Liffey entrance on wir wye upriver ti Poolbeg Marina which I'd niver heard o' bit his been on the go since the sivinties. Twa lads took wir ropes as we tied up on an ootside berth at the marina which is aboot 15 minutes walk ti the hert a Dublin . Spot on. Poolbeg is a marina wi a variety a boats an a nice feel ti it wi group a retired lads, includin a priest, that are at thir boats or the club ivery day. The crack wis good. We decided ti leave Lotus there while we went hame for ten days ti catch up wi athin so eftergittin a good deal we moved ti an inside berth an hid a few days enjoyin Dublin afore we went hame. Distance the day-36 bonny miles The DART railway passes close ti Poolbeg so we got two day tickets an went as far sooth as Wicklow hoppin on an aff at places we had passed and then north ti Malahide which is a nice toon wi a big marina. All in all we hid a good four days at Dublin especially meetin up an haein a meal wi Orla, a freen fae wir rugby tour days in the early ninties. We met early cos we were fleein the next mornin an Orla who is a barrister wis in coort at 9am. Got taxis aboot 1am !!! Frid 26th Aug ---Got the airport bus ootside the marina, hid a quick run there an flew at 12.30